There are reasons why saffron is so exprensive. The dainty purple crocus - crocus sativus - is a cousin of those pretty little blossoms that pop through the last snow cover of late winter in the northern climes of the U.S. But it’s only a family resemblance. What’s needed to make saffron are the three, and only three, stigmas of the purple crocus. They can only be harvested at dawn on the 15 to 20 days the flower blooms in October and the stigmas must be handpicked before being laid out to dry - the most arduous of stoop labors. It takes at least 14,000 of the thread-like stigmas to comprise a mere ounce of the product.

That ounce, at least of the most prized Spanish variety, can cost up to $1,200, a mere gram (with 28 grams to the ounce) as much as $44. True, an ounce is more often in the $110 to $250 range and grams from $4.50 to $7.50. But still.

Saffron harvests aren’t exclusive to Spain. Turkey, India, and Iran are major suppliers, and even French farmers are starting to cultivate the crocus. But those in the know have long prefered the Spanish variety, both because it is of reliably high quality and is the most consistently pungent and flavorful. Adulteration of the spice is all too common from other sources, especially in its powder form. (Think of the cocaine dealer who steps on his product with laxatives and powdered milk.)

The trouble is, the expense prevents home cooks from using enough saffron to bring up its richly exotic aroma, leaving only its appealing yellow color. Paella, pilafs, risottos, and bouillabaise are left the poorer. Ideally, the amount of saffrom called for in most American recipes should be doubled or tripled. And to wrench the most flavor and canary coloring from the spice, soak it in warm water for at least fifteen minutes (some sources recommend up to two hours) before adding it to the other ingredients.

But the cost! Here’s a semi-secret tip: On your next trip to Barcelona - you are planning to go to that vibrant Mediterranean city, aren’t you? - walk down Carrer Princesa and on past the turn to the Picasso Museum. The street seems to fade to less and less interest, but keep going. You’re looking for an unobtrusive store, Angel Jobal, at #38. It sells primarily to the restaurant trade, with packages of spices and teas far too large for home use. But at the corner of the front counter are plastic boxes of thread saffron in manageable portions. A container here of five grams cost only $17.40 in late September 2009, considerably less than in most retail outlets.

Tags: Angel Jobal, crocus sativus, saffron